Walk the old nutmeg groves shaded by giant kanari trees, the trade that built Banda.
The nutmeg groves are why the world once cared about these tiny islands. On Banda Besar and Lonthor you can walk through working plantations where nutmeg trees grow in the shade of huge kanari (canary almond) trees planted to shelter them, much as they did centuries ago. Guides show you how the fruit splits to reveal the seed wrapped in its bright red lace of mace, and how it is dried and sorted.
For a long time Banda was the only source of nutmeg on earth, and the Dutch enforced that monopoly with extreme violence, including the 1621 massacre and enslavement of much of the Bandanese population.
A plantation walk is part farm visit, part history lesson, and easily combined with old perkeniers' estates and village life.
Getting there
The main groves are on Banda Besar (Lonthor), a short boat ride across from Banda Neira, usually arranged through your guesthouse with a local guide. From the landing you walk uphill into the plantations and surrounding villages. It is commonly done as a half-day trip, sometimes paired with a historic estate house.
Best time
Any time of year works for the walk, though the dry, calmer months make the boat crossing easier. Go in the morning to avoid the worst heat under the canopy. The main nutmeg harvest periods add interest if your timing lines up.
Good to know
Hire a local guide, who explains the spice processing and the islands' history far better than a solo wander would, and supports the community. Wear shoes you can walk hill paths in, and bring water. You can usually buy nutmeg, mace, and kanari nuts directly from growers to take home.
Banda was once the world's only source of nutmeg, making it hugely valuable. The Dutch seized control by force in the early 1600s, including the 1621 massacre and enslavement of most Bandanese, which is the dark backdrop to today's peaceful groves.
They are kanari, or canary almond trees, planted to shelter the nutmeg from sun and wind. Their nuts are harvested too, and you will often see and can buy kanari alongside nutmeg and mace.
Yes, growers and villages usually sell nutmeg, mace, and kanari nuts on the spot, often cheaper and fresher than elsewhere. Bring cash, and it makes a meaningful, lightweight souvenir.
Add it to a route across Indonesia and we will work out the travel time and cost between every stop.
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