Tana Toraja

These multi-day ceremonies are the heart of Toraja life and are usually held in the dry season, roughly July to September. Guests are genuinely welcome, but you should come with a guide who can explain the etiquette and bring a small gift such as cigarettes or sugar for the host family. Be ready for animal sacrifice: buffalo and pigs are slaughtered in the open, which is confronting if you are not expecting it.

At Londa, you climb into a burial cave lit by oil lamps where coffins and bones rest in the dark, with carved wooden figures called tau tau watching from a balcony in the rock. Lemo is a sheer cliff face lined with rows of these effigies. Bring a small fee for the lamp guide at Londa, and be respectful, these are active graves, not a museum set.

Babies who died before teething were traditionally buried inside a living tree, the idea being that the child would grow with the tree. The trunk at Kambira is pocked with small sealed holes. It is quiet and a little haunting, and it tells you a lot about how the Toraja think about life and death.

This is the most visited traditional village, with a line of tongkonan houses, rice barns, and a hillside of hanging and stacked coffins behind it. Yes it sees tour buses, but the carving and the scale of the roofs are worth it. Go early or late to dodge the crowds, and tip a few thousand rupiah if someone walks you around.