Острова Банда

The main town on Banda Neira is small enough to explore in a morning, with crumbling Dutch mansions, the colonial-era church, and lanes shaded by nutmeg and almond trees. Stop at the house where independence figures Hatta and Sjahrir lived in exile in the 1930s, now small museums. It is one of the most atmospheric old towns in eastern Indonesia, and it costs almost nothing to wander.

The perfect volcanic cone of Gunung Api rises straight out of the bay, and the steep climb to the top takes roughly two hours up loose rock. Start before sunrise to beat the heat and catch the light over the islands and the harbor below. It is a genuine scramble, so wear proper shoes and bring more water than you think you need.

The drop-off just off Bandanaira and around the nearby islands is famous for healthy coral, big schools of fish, and clear water with strong visibility. You can snorkel straight off some jetties or join a boat dive to spots like the lava flow, where coral has regrown over an old eruption. Bring or arrange gear in advance, since options on the islands are limited.

Fort Belgica, the restored pentagon-shaped Dutch fort above the town, is the landmark you will see in every photo of Banda. Climb its towers for a sweeping view over Gunung Api and the bay. Just below sit the older ruins of Fort Nassau, where the brutal events of the 1621 nutmeg conquest played out, which gives the quiet site a heavy feeling.